11.09.07

How to Reduce Common Household Chemical Pollution at Home

Posted in Removing Chemicals at 9:33 pm by Administrator

I’m becoming increasingly agitated by the sheer load of common household chemicals sitting around my house. Until recently I didn’t understand that many of these products are volatile organic compounds (VOCs) which constantly emit small amounts of chemical vapor into the air. One at a time these might not be so bad, but these vapors, taken together, can produce a staggering amount of chemical exposure. Far more than is necessary or safe, especially for smaller bodies like children or pets. Indoor air is three times more polluted than outdoor air, and some scientists believe there’s a connection with increased cancer rates in industrialized nations versus more agrarian countries. There are many types of indoor pollution from biologic (pet dander, mites, bacteria, etc.) to chemical like pesticides to introduced soot like chimney and candle pollutants. In this post, we’ll deal with how to get a handle on spiraling stashes of cleaning products, one of the prime offenders.

First, centralize (segregate) all your cleaning products in one place to sort through and then store. I chose the garage to get them out of the house. If you’re in an apartment and have access to a storage unit, why not place your infrequently used chemicals there? Otherwise compensate for in-home storage by purging products and seeking out natural alternatives for some common cleaners. You’ll probably have lots of duplicates (I find buying glass cleaner is like mayonnaise – it’s one of those things I always think I’m out of). I also discovered I had multiple types of the same cleaner, each craftily designed for a slightly different use. Here’s my count:

  • Carpet cleaner (2 types)
  • Carpet stain remover
  • Upholstery cleaner
  • Glass cleaner (3)
  • Countertop cleaner
  • Tub & tile cleaner (2)
  • Oven cleaner
  • Lime/water deposit remover
  • Silver polish
  • Chrome & stainless polish
  • Toilet bowl cleaner (2)
  • Lemon & orange oil wood cleaner (4)
  • Disinfectant cleaner (2)
  • Floor cleaner, general
  • Hardwood floor cleaner
  • Bleach soft scrub (2)
  • Dusting cleaner (2)
  • Drain declogger (2)
  • Steamer cleaner solution
  • X-O odor neutralizer (all-natural = OK)

That’s 31 different containers, containing mildly hazardous to potentially fatal-if-inhaled or ingested chemical cocktails! Is this necessary? Must I really have two different types of frothy bubbles to handle my soap scum? (I also have Soap Scum cleaner). Nor does this list contain other chemicals such as laundry detergent, bleach, stain treatment, chemical coated dryer sheets, dishwashing detergent, nail polish remover, etc. Do you have paint in the house? Pesticides to handle the roaches? Wood stripper? Candles? Incense? All of these affect your air quality. Are you getting the picture?

Sort through your products and be tough about discarding multiples. Remember your goal is to reduce the concentration of emissions so duplicate items needlessly increase your risk. While you’re at it, root out old paint, strippers and combustible products. Almost every city has hazardous waste collection drop-off. If your paint gallon only has a little paint left, put it in a mason jar for touchups and discard the metal can properly.

Healthy Cleaning
Ironically many huge companies that make the big brand cleaners actually use natural essential oils because there’s simply nothing better than oils like pine or orange for powerful cleaning. The problem is, they don’t stop there but add other chemicals to make these cleaners more efficient or extend their shelf life.

Many of these cleaning products exist simply for convenience. Did you know that 2 natural ingredients will do 90% of your household cleaning?
A gallon jug of white vinegar is nature’s wonder cleaner. The second is baking soda. Between these two products, you can do most home cleaning tasks including glass cleaning, tub & shower, soap scum, mildew, floors, shining sinks, oven and appliance cleaning, scouring, toilets, mineral deposits in showerheads and faucets, even drain cleaning. The vinegar smell goes away quickly. And straight vinegar kills 99% of bacteria.
Scrubbing paste: 1/4 cup baking soda and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Use to clean oven, microwave, stove.
Toilets: Use undiluted vinegar – it’s acidic and great on rings. Flush and before water rises, scrub down with vinegar.
Shining sinks: use straight vinegar on a sponge, rinse thoroughly.
Floors: Diluted vinegar works wonderfully on hardwood and tile (just make sure it’s diluted – undiluted vinegar can eat at grout). Mix a bucket of water with 1/4 cup vinegar. For a really dirty floor, add a couple drops of dishwashing liquid or the juice of a whole lemon.
Silver cleaner: mix 1 teaspoon of water with 3 teaspoons of baking soda.
Glass & Shower: 5 cups water, 1 cup vinegar
Laundry: Instead of fabric softener AND to get rid of lint sticking to darks, add 1/2 cup vinegar to your rinse cycle.
Drain Declog: Sprinkle 1 cup of baking soda in your drain. Follow with 1 cup of vinegar. Let them froth for 5 minutes then follow by flushing drain with hot water.
Furniture polish: 1/2 cup olive oil with 1/2 cup lemon or orange juice (squeeze direct from fruit).
I mentioned candles and incense earlier. I didn’t realize that my precious candles can introduce far more than good scents into the air. At a minimum they produce soot, but also potential carcinogens like benzene, tolulene, and formaldehyde. Choose beeswax or soy candles which are cleaner burning than petroleum based candles with cotton wicks (no metal wire inside). Avoid “long burning” candles which frequently contain additives.

Good article on candle issues:

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/recalls/candle_tips.htm

10.25.07

How We Smell – Olfaction

Posted in Cleaning Odors at 10:50 pm by Administrator

The sense of smell or olfaction is truly a survival mechanism. Through this sense, we can scope out potential mates, smoke, dangerous (spoiled) foods that might kill us, and assess our surroundings as pleasant or threatening. Smells can be uplifting like those of flowers or a baby’s skin, or depressing such as septic (uh oh – there’s a problem with the system).

The feeling of smelling comes from detecting an odorant molecule in the air at whatever part per million (humans, though not as sophisticated as animals, can still differentiate between thousands of scents). The molecules hit your sensory receptors in a handy area called the olfactory epithelium, located high up in your nose, which contains tiny sensory neurons and cilia. Proteins created when the molecules dissolve in the mucus activate a message sent to the brain: “Hey, process this smell, will you?” Smell is really an interaction in the body between inhaled odor molecules and receptors which generate an electrical signal.Some experts speculate that up to 78% of what you taste is really your sense of smell. Both smell and taste (gustation) are called the chemical senses because they’re all about detecting chemicals (and of course everything’s made up of chemicals naturally – even you). Recent gene studies have discovered at least 1,000 genes related to sense of smell – a large proportion of the total estimated 30,000 – 50,000 protein coding genes.

So how do those odor molecules actually make it to your nose in the first place? They need to be “volatile” which sounds scary as if they’re going to explode any moment or go on a rampage. It really just means that the thing which has the odor is constantly emitting or evaporating small amounts of molecules that in turn are tiny enough to enter the nose and dissolve in the mucus. According to the EPA, VOCs (volatile organic compounds) occur in much higher concentrations indoors than outdoors (up to 10X higher). Thousands of products give off VOCs from the magic marker in your kitchen drawer to the cleaning supplies under the sink to the carpet on the floor. Many common household products give off odors that may be undetectable to your nose, but nonetheless are present in the environment. Multiply this by all the cans, sprays, jugs and bottles of products and you begin to think….do I really want all this in my house? But that’s a topic for another time. To learn more about Indoor Air Quality by the EPA visit here.

10.18.07

Removing Odor from Refrigerators

Posted in Cleaning Odors at 7:44 pm by Administrator

Refrigerator odors are typically caused by strong smelling or spoiled foods, and the transfer of those odors into the actual insulation of the fridge.

We’ve all grown up with the baking soda trick. Does it really work to free your refrigerator from food odors? Recently, I experimented with another closed environment: my car. There was a bad smell from spoiled food under the seat. I used one of the Arm & Hammer boxes that are specifically designed for odor removal (you pop the cardboard and a netting-like screen protects the baking soda from spilling out). I gave it a couple of days and while there was some reduction, the smell was still present.

Here’s how you handle the problem with X-O. If you have a food that is causing an unpleasant smell, remove it and then crumple a paper towel into a small cup, pour X-O over it, and set in the refrigerator door to remove odors.

To correct bigger problems like the transfer of odor into refrigerator insulation, perform a thorough cleaning first. Unplug the refrigerator, empty it, and wash walls, rubber seals, everything, down thoroughly with X-O. Place the paper cup containing the X-O in the door afterward. Limit use of the refrigerator for several hours.

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